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French Polynesia, Pitcairn &
Henderson
Friday
8th October – Thursday 28th October 2010 (21 days)
Marquesas Islands Extension from Monday 4th October (3 days)
Leaders: Mark
Van Beirs and the Braveheart staff
Ship: The Braveheart
(capacity 11 passengers)
How
many chances does one have to visit a scattering of largely uninhabited
tropical islands where deserted white sand beaches are fringed with
luxuriant vegetation, haunted by rarely seen endemics, and the seas
are enlivened by a host of little-known seabirds? Not many, but
here is one fantastic opportunity! Add into the mix the romance
and violence of the Mutiny on the Bounty story, the classic,
real-life tale of putting love before duty and its tragic consequences,
and you have something extraordinarily alluring. The Polynesian
triangle between Hawaii, New Zealand and Easter Island stretches
about 8000 kilometres across the central Pacific Ocean. This vast
area is dotted with numerous tropical islands, many of them of volcanic
origin and never connected to the continents. Amongst this scattering
of tiny isolated dots on the map of the world, there are two broad
island types: the first being the high volcanic islands where erosion
has produced gentle windward slopes that often contrast with the
steep and rugged leeward cliffs, frequently encircled by fringing
reefs. The second consists of the low-lying islands, mostly coral
atolls and or raised former atolls. Both island types have evolved
endemic birds, reptiles, plants and insects, the existence of many
of which is under threat from introduced rats and human activity,
and during our travels we shall explore fascinating examples of
each. This exciting journey focuses on some of the rarest and most
exciting island birds in the entire Pacific region. French Polynesia
covers a vast expanse of the South Pacific, equivalent to a region
stretching from Finland to Spain! Its farthest flung outposts are
the remote Gambier Islands at the eastern end of the Tuamotu Archipelago,
and still more remote, far beyond the Gambiers, are Pitcairn and
Henderson islands. Our journey through the islands will start in
Tahiti, the largest and highest of the Society Islands, where we
will arrive in Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. This cosmopolitan
city with over 100,000 people will provide a great contrast with
sparsely inhabited or uninhabited islands we are soon to visit.
Here, on the beautiful island where so many of the Bounty's
crew fell for the local ladies, and from where they eventually
set sail to seek refuge from the King's justice on remote Pitcairn
Island, we will mainly be birding in the interior highlands, dominated
by two old volcanoes. Here we should find such endemics as Grey-green
Fruit-Dove, Tahiti Swiftlet, Tahiti Kingfisher, the extremely rare
Tahiti Monarch and Tahiti Reed Warbler. From Papeete we will fly
far to the southeast, to Mangaréva in the remote Gambier Islands.
Here we will board our boat, the Braveheart , and set sail
for the end of the world, or so it will seem to us. First we will
explore famous Pitcairn Island, last refuge of the Bounty
mutineers, their Tahitian ladies and some male relatives (the ancestral
mix of today's Pitcairn islanders), where Pitcairn Reed Warbler
will be the main target. Moving on to uninhabited Henderson Island,
we will be looking for the fearless Henderson Island Crake, Henderson
Island Fruit-Dove, the stunning Stephen's Lorikeet and Henderson
Reed Warbler, while on Oeno we will see an extraordinary seabird
colony at eyeball to eyeball distance. In the Acteon Group in the
easternmost Tuamotus we will visit Tenararo, home to that Holy Grail
of Pacific birding, the extraordinary little Tuamotu Sandpiper (surely
one of the most endearing birds of the trip). Considered one of
the rarest waders in the world, this unusual endemic species is
most definitely a long-dreamed-of bird for many people. Tenararo
is also the haunt of Atoll Fruit-Dove, the delightful Polynesian
Ground-Dove and the endangered Bristle-thighed Curlew (another of
the world's rarest shorebirds, the majority of which winter in the
Tuamotus). To cap it all, as we sail between these tiny specks in
the vastness of the Pacific, we are going to see the most glorious
collection of tropical and subtropical seabirds possible, including
Tahiti, Phoenix, Murphy's, Kermadec, Herald and Henderson Petrels,
Christmas and Tropical Shearwaters, White-faced and Polynesian Storm-Petrels,
Red-tailed and White-tailed Tropicbirds, Masked, Red-footed and
Brown Boobies, Great and Lesser Frigatebirds, Spectacled (or Grey-backed),
Sooty and Common White Terns, and Black, Brown, Blue and Grey Noddies,
plus a selection of stragglers from cooler waters further south,
such as Grey and Cape Petrels. All in all, this is a remarkable
opportunity to explore one of the most remote and least touched
places on planet Earth today, and see some of our world's most seldom-seen
birds!
MV
Braveheart , our home for two weeks, is a very well equipped
and comfortable vessel, 39 metres (about 128 feet) in length, with
capacity for 12 passengers and five crew. Built in Japan, she was
later converted for expedition-style cruising and is now based in
New Zealand. She has six twin-berth, air-conditioned cabins and
three shared bathrooms for her passengers (some cabins have double
berths), modern safety equipment and three zodiacs (inflatables
with rigid hulls) for making landings in remote areas. There is
a spacious mess (dining area) and a smaller lounge/library area
with DVD player, power points for computers etc. A large, shaded
area on the deck towards the stern is excellent for seawatching.
Braveheart offers much more space and comfort than a yacht
and is the perfect vessel for a cruise of this kind.
During
the optional pre-tour extension we will explore the Marquesas, a
chain of rugged, volcanic islands some 1500 kilometres (or around
940 miles) to the northeast of Papeete. Here we will explore Nuku
Hiva, the largest of the chain, and also Ua Huka in search of such
endemics as the strange Nukuhiva Imperial Pigeon, White-capped Fruit-Dove,
the beautiful Ultramarine Lorikeet, Marquesas Swiftlet, Iphis Monarch
and Marquesas Reed Warbler, as well as the delightful near-endemic
Little White Tern.
Mark
Van Beirs has travelled extensively in the Pacific islands. Birdquest
has been operating tours to French Polynesia since 2002 and to Pitcairn
and Henderson since 2008.
| Itinerary |
| Day
1 Afternoon flight from London bound for Papeete.
Day
2 Morning arrival at Papeete for a three nights
stay. Our very fancy resort hotel is located by the ocean
and has fantastic views across to the mountainous island of
Moorea with its conical volcanic peaks. It is a great place
to rest up after the long journey. Many introduced birds are
present in the grounds, including Zebra Dove, Red-vented Bulbul,
Common Myna, Silvereye, Common Waxbill and Chestnut-breasted
Mannikin, some of which will undoubtedly try to share our
food as we eat in the open air restaurant!
Days
3-4 During our visit to the island we will
explore the mountainous interior of Tahiti in search of three
endemics, the attractive Grey-green Fruit-Dove, Tahiti Kingfisher
and Tahiti Reed Warbler (the latter favours tall bamboo thickets).
We are also likely to encounter Pacific Black Duck, Pacific
Swallow (the nominate race here is dark and very different
to most other populations) and the introduced Swamp Harrier
and Red-browed Firetail. With the help of a local expert,
we will also explore one of the island's deep forested valleys.
Here we will find the endemic Tahiti Monarch, now critically
endangered with perhaps only about 40 individuals surviving,
and we will also be able to visit a colony of Tahiti Swiftlets,
watching the adults whizzing along a narrow, rocky defile
as they return to, or leave, their nests.
Day
5 This morning we will catch one of the very
infrequent flights to Mangaréva in the remote Gambier islands
at the far eastern end of the scattered Tuamotu archipelago.
It is a long flight, for a domestic route, over 1600 kilometres
(1000 miles) as the Tahiti Petrel flies, and the journey is
broken by a stopover at the almost equally remote Hao atoll.
As we descend over this huge atoll, so large that one cannot
even see the far side, it will be brought home to us how little
land there is in the Tuamotus: just thin barrier islands and
numerous tiny islets (known locally as motu ) projecting
above the water on top of the coral reef forming the atoll
and protecting a huge, impossibly turquoise lagoon. Everywhere
are beaches of white sand, backed by the deep greens of coconut
palms and native island ‘bush'. Once we arrive at Mangaréva,
where Pacific Golden plovers favour the grassy edges of the
runway, we will transfer by ferry from the airport island
to the harbour of the main island, where Braveheart ,
our home for the next 14 nights, will be waiting for us. During
the afternoon we will set sail for the magical, largely uninhabited
world of the islands that awaits us. As we head southeastwards,
towards Pitcairn island, we will keep a lookout for our first
Phoenix and Herald Petrels, Christmas Shearwaters, Polynesian
Storm-Petrels, Great and Lesser Frigatebirds, Greater Crested
Tern, Brown and Black Noddies, and pretty Blue Noddies (the
latter formerly lumped with Grey Noddy under the name Blue-grey
Noddy).
Days
6-18 During our two weeks on Braveheart we
shall explore the easternmost Tuamotu Islands and the even
more remote Pitcairn, Henderson and Oeno Islands. The run
to Pitcairn will take about 36 hours, but the journey will
provide some interesting seabird opportunities. In addition
to some of the species likely as we left Mangaréva, we will
be keeping a lookout for our first Murphy's and Henderson's
Petrels, Flesh-footed Shearwater, Tropical Shearwater (split
from Audubon's) and White-faced Storm-Petrel.
Not
many travellers have the chance or the privilege of stepping
ashore on rugged Pitcairn Island, so we shall join a select
band as we explore this fascinating spot where the Bounty
mutineers ended up. As with almost all of our landings,
we will not be able to get ashore directly from Braveheart
, so we will use the zodiacs instead. Although Pitcairn
and its dependencies are an overseas territory of the United
Kingdom, the islands are effectively administered from New
Zealand, itself amazingly distant. Pitcairn's isolation is
exacerbated by the lack of an airport, and there are no regular
shipping connections, so visitors are a rare event! We are
sure to be made most welcome and no doubt some of us will
want to visit the post office in the small settlement in order
to buy those sought-after Pitcairn stamps to put on the ritual
postcards. Pitcairn's single-island endemic, the Pitcairn
Reed Warbler, is common on the island, so we will have no
trouble finding some.
As
we wait for the zodiacs to take us back to Braveheart
, we will be only about 100 meters from where the blazing
hulk of the Bounty sank after the mutineers decided
to burn her to leave no easily visible trace of their presence.
As with any such tale, both sides have strong views. From
the islander's perspective Captain Bligh was a cruel tyrant
who virtually compelled Fletcher Christian and his allies
to mutiny, yet if that were truly the case one wonders why
so many of the crew elected to join Bligh in a small open
boat when the mutineers put him off the ship in the then unknown
seas off Tonga, facing almost certain death. And one marvels
at a man who could then save his men by a remarkable feat
of seamanship, sailing that tiny boat 3700 nautical miles,
all the way to Kupang in Timor, in the then Dutch East Indies.
Offshore
we will keep a lookout for Masked Booby and in particular
for Grey Noddy (the latter breeds on Henderson but regularly
occurs around Pitcairn as well). As we sail northeast from
Pitcairn to Henderson Island we will encounter more and more
Henderson's Petrels, a species that only nests in this remote,
uninhabited place (and which was formerly, mistakenly, considered
a dark morph of Herald Petrel), and we should also come across
Kermadec Petrel. We will reach the southernmost point of our
voyage in the waters around Pitcairn and its dependencies,
so we will be looking out for cool-water wanderers throughout
the region, such as an albatrosses, giant petrels, and Cape,
White-chinned, Great-winged and Grey Petrels.
Unlike
rugged Pitcairn, Henderson is a raised coral reef and so is
basically a flat, thickly vegetated plateau of limestone rising
20 metres or so above sea-level. After finding our way from
the beach up onto the plateau we will start looking for Henderson's
four single-island endemics. Most of the flightless crakes
of the Pacific islands have long been extinct, but sheer isolation
and unsuitability for human settlement has allowed the bold
little Henderson Island Crake to survive. We should eventually
be able to find one or two of these rather inquisitive little
birds wandering around under the scrubby woodland, feeding
in the leaf littler. Henderson Reed Warbler (split from Pitcairn)
is a common species on the island, but we will probably have
to work harder for good views of the stunning Stephen's Lorikeet
and the attractive Henderson Island Fruit-Dove.
From
Henderson we turn to the west and sail to Oeno island, the
last of the Pitcairn islands group that we will visit. Oeno
is a coral atoll with a perfect ‘desert island', covered in
luxuriant vegetation and surrounded by white coral sand beaches,
in the middle! The seabird colony here is truly spectacular,
with breeding Murphy's Petrels running into the thousands,
along with smaller numbers of Christmas Shearwaters, Great
Frigatebirds, Masked and Red-footed Boobies, Red-tailed Tropicbirds,
and Spectacled (or Grey-backed), Sooty and Common White (or
Fairy) Terns. As with all remote and uninhabited tropical
islands, the seabirds are unafraid of man, so we will be able
to enjoy some extraordinary views and will feel truly privileged
to be able to wander around in such a wonderful place. In
particular, watching the lovely Common White Tern at such
close range that one can see its ‘mascara-like' dark eye smudge
(which enhances its already huge eye, perhaps adapted for
seeing in the forest interior) and the blue base to the dagger-like
bill, is a real delight. Long-tailed Cuckoos (or Long-trailed
Koels) from New Zealand spend the Austral winter on Pacific
islands like Oeno, so we will keep a lookout for this interesting
species.
Sailing
now to the northwest, after a full day at sea with great opportunities
for a selection of Pterodroma species and other
deepwater pelagics, including Tahiti Petrel, we come to the
Acteon group of islands and in particular the island of Tenararo.
This beautiful and remote uninhabited island, which is rat-free,
is this one of the last breeding sites for the rare and enigmatic
Tuamotu Sandpiper. As we step ashore on this pristine desert
island and our footprints mark the virgin white sand we will
feel quite Robinson Crusoe-like! It should not take long before
we find the little sandpiper, which feeds mostly along the
tideline but also spends much time walking on the leaf litter
under the tangled jungle of the island's interior, or can
even be watched walking up tree branches high above one's
head! When the birds display they hover and veer in the manner
of Temminck's Stint, all the while uttering their beautiful
trilling call. Even better is their confiding manner (not
a help with rats, sadly) and we should be able to walk right
up to them without causing any concern! On Tenararo this wonderful
bird remains extraordinarily common and we may see up to 200
individuals during our visit!
Amongst
the trees and bushes on Tenararo we should easily find another
Tuamotu endemic, the beautiful Atoll Fruit-Dove. We will also
search for the unobtrusive but dazzling little Polynesian
Ground-Dove, which as its name suggests spends its time on
the ground. We will have to search patiently and carefully,
for these birds are both slow-moving and unafraid, so they
can even be spotted walking along right next to one's feet!
If we are in luck we will be able to watch the male displaying
close to us, stretching out its wings to display their purple
iridescence. Sadly this species has disappeared from most
of its range in the Tuamotus owing to the depredations of
rats. This is also a good island for seeing Bristle-thighed
Curlew, a species that flies south from Alaska to the Tuamotus
to winter in paradise, and Wandering Tattler.
We
may have time to visit another of the Tuamotu atolls, such
as Morane, but our highest priority will be to see the key
endemic landbirds and pelagic seabirds well, so we will spend
more time in places like Henderson if we need to.
Day
19 This morning we will go ashore at Mangareva
and head for the airport in time for the afternoon flight
to Papeete, where we connect with an evening flight bound
for London.
Day
20 In transit to London.
Day
21 Morning arrival at London.
Marquesas
Islands Pre-Tour Extension Itinerary
Day
1 Afternoon flight from London bound for Papeete.
Day
2 Morning arrival at Papeete. From here we
will fly to the island of Nuku Hiva in the distant Marquesas
for an overnight stay, covering a greater distance (nearly
1500 kilometres) than that between London and Rome! En route
we should enjoy some fine aerial views of the Tuamotus. The
airport, for want of suitable flat land elsewhere, was constructed
in the far northwest of the island, at the opposite end of
the island from the two main villages, so we will cross this
rugged and spectacular island before we reach Taiohae, where
we will stay for two nights. This very scenic island has many
high rocky peaks, rising to 1224m at the summit of Mount Tekao,
and sheer coastal cliffs that rise to over 500m in places.
Day
3 Today we will visit the best part of the
island for finding the endemic Nukuhiva Imperial Pigeon. This
huge dark and rather lethargic pigeon has a broad, flat, white-feathered
protuberance projecting above its bill, giving it a decidedly
strange appearance, and its weird, rather unpigeon-like calls
simply add to the mystique of this very rare bird that now
numbers only about 200 individuals (shared between Nukuhiva
and Ua Huka, where the species has been reintroduced). We
should be able to find some sitting in some large fig trees
and obtain splendid views of this unusual species. We will
also have our first encounters with three more endemics: White-capped
Fruit-Dove, Marquesas Swiftlet and Marquesas Reed Warbler,
all of which are common. Our first Little White Terns (or
Little Fairy Terns), a near-endemic species, will be seen
flying high overhead or perching in roadside trees, sometimes
alongside Black Noddies.
Day
4 This morning we will travel by one of the
local boats to the equally rugged, but smaller and lower,
island of Ua Huka, which will be clearly visible to the west
as soon as we round the headland beyond Taiohae. The journey
is excellent for pelagic seabirds and, as well as species
we are likely to see during our voyage on Braveheart ,
we should encounter Bulwer's Petrel, Wedge-tailed Shearwater
and Little White Tern. As we approach Ua Huka we will pause
at a small island where tens of thousands of Sooty Terns will
be nesting. Once we reach Ua Huka itself we will leave our
luggage at our guesthouse, where we will overnight, and head
off into the mountainous interior, where our targets will
be the beautiful endemic Ultramarine Lorikeet, which is now
extinct on the other inhabited islands in the Marquesas, but
which remains fairly common here, and the endemic Iphis Monarch
(now restricted to Ua Huka). We will visit a forested valley
where both these species are fairly common.
Day
5 After some more birding on Ua Huka we will
return to Nuku Hiva for an overnight stay.
Day
6 After another chance for some birding on
Nuku Hiva we will take an afternoon flight to Papeete to join
up with those who have arrived for the main tour. (This is
Day 2 of the main tour).
Rimatara
Extension
Provided
there are at least three participants interested, we will
offer a 3 days extension to the remote island of Rimatara
to see the exquisite Kuhl's (or Rimatara) Lorikeet. Rimatara
is situated in the remote Austral Islands to the southeast
of Tahiti. Please indicate when booking this tour if you are
interested in this optional extension and we will let you
know the potential cost once the number of interested participants
is known.
Accommodation
& Road Transport: The hotel in Papeete is of
normal Birdquest standard (luxurious in fact!). For details
of Braveheart , please see the tour introduction.
During the extension, the guesthouse accommodation on Nuku
Hiva and Ua Huka is simple but very clean and comfortable,
and bathroom facilities may be shared. Road transport will
be by minibus and roads (where they exist) are mostly good.
Walking:
The walking effort is easy almost throughout, but
there will be one more difficult walk on Tahiti.
Climate:
Warm or hot and humid. Occasional rain is likely.
At sea it can feel noticeably cooler, especially early and
late in the day.
Bird
Photography: Opportunities are quite good overall.
Some of the specialities are exceptionally approachable.
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Photograph
by Pete Morris/Birdquest
The wonderfully
inquisitive and totally unique Tuamotu Sandpiper will
be high on our want list!
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| Photograph
Pete Morris/Birdquest
We will visit numerous beautiful tropical islands!
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TOUR PRICES
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| Tour
Price: 2010 (provisional): £7350, €9555, $13965
London/London (or £6250, €8125, $11875 Papeete/Papeete).
Extension: £1290, €1677, £2451. Based on 9 or more participants.
Additional
Exclusions: Gratuities on board the boat for the
expedition staff and crew (most passengers give between €100-150
in total) are not included in the tour price.
Airport/hotel
transfer and lunch on arrival day in Papeete for those not
taking the Marquesas pre-tour extension. For the usual exclusions,
please see the Booking Information.
Single
Room Supplement: £210, €273, $399 (Papeete
only). If you would like guaranteed single occupancy of a
cabin on board Braveheart the additional charge
is £4500, €5850, $8550. Please note that if you opt
to share you will not have to pay the single
occupancy supplement even if you do not end up with a cabin-mate.
As there are only six cabins on Braveheart , participants
travelling alone will have to be prepared to share a cabin
with someone of either sex if need be. Bathroom facilities
are not en-suite, but elsewhere on the boat, so privacy is
assured. If the boat is not full, any spare cabins will be
used in the first place to remove the need for any sharing
with the opposite sex. Pre-tour Extension: £180, €234,
$342.
Basic
Deposit: £2000, €2600, $3800.
Supplementary
Deposit (for those arranging international air travel
through us, due 12 months prior to departure): £1050, €1365,
$1995.
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Pete Morris/Birdquest
The critically
endangered Polynesian Ground-Dove has been pushed to
the brink of extinction by introduced rats. |
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| Photograph
Pete Morris/Birdquest
A bulk of the
Bristle-thighed Curlew population winters in Polynesia. |
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