Day 1   Afternoon flight from London to Oslo for an overnight stay.

Day 2   This morning we will catch a flight to Longyearbyen via Tromsø in Arctic Norway. If the weather is good it will be a spectacular flight as we first cross the mountains, lakes and fjords of Norway and then the even more impressive mountains of Spitsbergen, which stretch away far into the distance. Drift ice can be seen speckling the Arctic Ocean far below and will be just a foretaste of the magic to come. In the afternoon, while the ship is being readied, we will have a chance to visit Longyearbyen, the only place on Spitsbergen that qualifies for the term ‘town', although it is very small. Originally established to serve the Norwegian coal mines, which still exist but are unused, the town now serves as the administrative centre for the islands and has a growing tourist business, as well as a university. The gaily painted wooden houses and the small but modern shopping centre look strangely out of place amidst the looming, snow covered fells and the waters of the Isfjorden. We should have enough time today (or on our return next week) to walk out of town to admire one of the world's most unusual and charismatic road signs – a red triangular warning sign with a Polar Bear silhouette and the wording ‘applies to all Spitsbergen!' Although Polar Bears are usually wary of humans, there have been exceptions over the years and even hikers and kayakers here are expected to carry flares and a rifle – just in case! We should see our first Snow Buntings in the town itself, and during the walk out we can expect to come across cooing Common Eiders, Long-tailed Ducks in their beautiful summer plumage, Common Ringed Plover, Dunlin and some very tame Purple Sandpipers, while Arctic Terns will be constant companions. Glaucous Gulls are the common large gulls here, but occasionally they are joined by a vagrant Iceland Gull or one of Spitsbergen's few resident Greater Black-backed Gulls. The town's husky kennels are situated nearby and we can go up and see these interesting wolf-like animals at close quarters: perhaps they will start howling in unison, making that wolf-like impression all the stronger. Sometimes an Ivory Gull or two lingers here into early summer. After we board our ship and settle in to our cabins there will be a briefing and then we will set sail towards the mouth of the magnificent Isfjorden and the open sea, accompanied by the first of many Northern Fulmars (most of the dark morph, characteristic of these high latitudes).

Days 3-8   Our itinerary will be determined by the present position of the heavy drift ice, for although our ship can safely penetrate the ice, progress is just too slow to spend much time there. The general intention is to head for the north of Spitsbergen immediately should ice conditions permit. Every cruise in Spitsbergen is different: the locations mentioned below are just some of the places that are visited and there are many others which are undescribed, but equally wonderful.

To the north of the long island known as Prins Karl Forland are Krossfjorden and Kongsfjorden, two spectacular fjords full of glaciers and snowy mountains.

Blomstrandhalvøya makes for a fascinating landing site in Krossfjorden. Here a rather roguish English entrepreneur started up marble-mining operations in the early years of the 20th century, only to discover, once the ice thawed after shipping the slabs south, that the marble was cracked and so of poor quality! The owner's hut and various rusting pieces of machinery still bear testimony to this financial disaster. Behind the shoreline the stony tundra rises towards a high, partly snow-covered range of hills. The only accessible pair of Long-tailed Skuas in Spitsbergen usually nests here, so we may be able to enjoy watching one of these elegant birds guarding its nest while the off-duty partner patrols past, keeping a wary eye on us. Further into the interior, Rock Ptarmigans haunt the scree slopes. At this time of year the male ptarmigan are still white, or just showing a few dark feathers, and so they are relatively easy to spot as they survey their territories from the tops of large boulders or rocky crags. The females, however, have already moulted into their amazingly cryptic summer plumage. The curious Svalbard form of the Reindeer, which has short legs that make it appear almost wild goat-like, can also be found here.

Across the fjord is the scientific research base of Ny Ålesund, the most northerly settlement on Earth. Once the site of a coal mine, Ny Ålesund was the jumping off point, or arrival point, for a series of polar expeditions by air, including Amundsen's almost-successful flight of 1910, Byrd's successful flight and Amundsen and Nobile's successful airship voyage on the Norge in 1926, and finally Nobile's doomed voyage on the airship Italia in 1928. The tall anchor mast for the airships stands to this day. This historic spot is also excellent for wildlife. King Eiders often frequent the shoreline, while inland the husky kennels are a reliable spot for Ivory Gull and unusually tolerant Arctic Terns nest all around the bust of Amundsen. The small lakes and grassy areas on the edge of the settlement attract Barnacle Geese and sometimes straggling wildfowl from the European mainland, while not far from the small souvenir shop Arctic Foxes have their den underneath a wooden house and we may even be able to watch the utterly delightful greyish pups playing together while their piebald mother keeps watch.

We may land at the Tinayrebreen, one of the huge glaciers in Krossfjorden, where the rocky slopes hold Rock Ptarmigan and nesting Pink-footed and Barnacle Geese, as well as Arctic Skuas (or Parasitic Jaegers). Arctic plants are numerous and diverse, with Purple Saxifrage, Arctic Bell Heather, Moss Campion and several species of arctic buttercups amongst others. Spitsbergen's only widespread ‘tree', the mat-like Polar Willow, is everywhere. As we walk on the ridge here we will be able to look down on the surface of the glacier, seeing the dirty marks where rocks and debris lie on the surface. From time to time a large chunk of ice from the glacier front calves into the bay, floating away as a small iceberg. At the 14th of July glacier (named by a French expedition) near the junction of the fjords we will take to our zodiacs to explore the seabird cliffs where huge numbers of Brünnich's Guillemots (or Thick-billed Murres) and Atlantic Puffins nest, occasionally joined by a lone pair of Razorbills at the northern extremity of their distribution. Later we will use the zodiacs to explore the face of the glacier, admiring the extraordinary pattern of cracks, crevices and recesses in the ice and of course the deep blue colour of the dense glacier ice. We should come across one or more weirdly sculpted blue icebergs in the bay, getting up close to use yet more rolls of film and see the almost unbelievable colours and ice carvings.

At the northwest corner of Spitsbergen are the small islands of Amsterdamøya, Danskøya, Fuglesangen (or Fuglesongen) with its enormous Little Auk (or Dovekie) colony and Ytre Norskøya.

Amsterdamøya was the site of the most famous Dutch (and Danish) whaling settlement of the 17th century, Smeerenburg (‘Blubbertown'). Some of the blubber ovens and the bases of the whalers' huts still remain, as do some of the graves of those who died here (including, notably, a party of seven who were left to overwinter but died of scurvy). Situated on a bleak spit dominated by a nearby mountain, one can imagine all the activity here at the time when Bowhead (or Greenland Right) Whales were being captured and butchered all through the summer months, but it must have been a very hard life indeed. For those who enjoy birds as well as history there are Red-throated Divers (or Red-throated Loons), beautifully-plumaged Ruddy Turnstones and the occasional Great Skua. Across the narrow sound is Danskøya and a landing at Virgohamna gives an interesting insight into the expedition period of Spitsbergen's history. Here are the remains of the hanger that housed Andrée's balloon prior to his ill-fated attempt on the pole in 1897 (the balloon came down after only three days, due to excessive icing, and the three crew members walked over the ice to Kvitøya in far northeast Spitsbergen but died there, their fate remaining a mystery until their bodies, log and film were discovered there in 1930!). There are also the much larger remains of the hanger dating from Wellman's airship attempts of 1906-1909.

The island of Fuglesangen is a bleak, snow-streaked mountain rising from the sea at the most northwesterly point of the Spitsbergen archipelago. Here the many boulder slopes provide countless crevices for nesting Little Auks (or Dovekies) and once we have made our way slowly along the foreshore from the landing place we will be able to work our way cautiously to the edge of just one section of this enormous colony (tens of thousands strong!). At this time of year it is still early in the breeding cycle and huge numbers of birds are visiting their burrows to lay eggs and gathering to socialize. As we gaze across the slopes we will be able to see thousands of little white and black birds clustered on the boulders and by carefully creeping up on these splendid little alcids we should be able to get stunning views from just three or four metres range. Flocks of birds are constantly coming and going at the colony and just hearing the maniacal cackling of the birds is something special in itself. Every so often a Glaucous Gull (or more rarely a Great Skua) patrols the slopes, creating a frenzy of activity as many thousands of birds take to the air with a deafening roar, the flocks curving across the sky like winter flocks of Common Starlings before gradually settling again. As these fast-flying flocks sweep low over one's head the sound of their wings and their loud cries fill the air. Indeed, the whole experience here is absolutely awe-inspiring for anyone who loves birds, and is of course unique to the High Arctic. A very different experience all round from seeing a solitary Little Auk in winter bobbing distantly on the water off some headland, or whirring past at extreme range! Not far away from Fuglesangen is Ytre Norskøya, site of another whaling settlement and complete with the remains of blubber ovens and many graves of whalers who never made it home from this wild place at the ‘edge of the world'.

As long as ice conditions permit we will visit remote Moffen, a low-lying, rather atoll-like island with a central lagoon (making it decidedly atypical in mountainous Spitsbergen). This is a haul out area for male Walruses and we are likely to observe several groups resting on the beach, perhaps amounting to 100 or more. The island is also one of the few places in Spitsbergen where the small but beautiful Sabine's Gull nests, so we will naturally be hoping to get up to Moffen, not least because the island is situated at over 80°N and so seems almost within striking distance of the pole! Unfortunately, as the island is a strict nature reserve and approach closer than 300m is forbidden, it is hard to get more than a distant view of the gulls from the ship (and a personal telescope is essential). Sometimes Polar Bears come ashore here as the ice melts, but Moffen offers little in the way of food for them (adult male Walruses are just too big, even for this mega-predator!).

To the south of Moffen are spectacular Woodfjorden and Liefdefjorden. Here we may go ashore at Reinsdyrflya, a huge plain that holds, as its Norwegian name implies, a large population of the short-legged Spitsbergen race of the Reindeer. This is a great area for Polar Bears, which in this area survive the lean summer months by hunting seals on the remaining ice in the more protected bays. We have an excellent chance of seeing several while in this area and we will be hoping that one will allow a close approach by zodiac. Seeing one of these huge beasts close up as it walks along the shoreline or across the ice is an awesome experience: those cold black eyes, the inquisitive facial expression and the fearless behaviour suggest bear thoughts along the line ‘is this food I see approaching?'! Alternatively, we might come across one swimming between the islands or areas of fjord ice. If we are lucky we will also encounter Northern Minke Whale in this area. We may also visit some small islands where Red (or Grey) Phalaropes nest in some numbers, enjoying some fantastic, close-up views of these beautifully-plumaged and very confiding little birds as they swim along in the shallows right in front of us, stopping frequently to pick insects from the water's surface. We will soon learn to distinguish the deep red females from the more pastel-shaded males. Pink-footed and Pale-bellied Brent Geese nest in the area too, as do Long-tailed Ducks, Common Eiders, the beautiful King Eider, Purple Sandpipers, Great Skua and Arctic Skua (or Parasitic Jaeger). Ivory Gulls are regular here and probably breed in the stark mountains nearby. Watching one flying over the equally white ice, with the blue-black and white peaks behind, is a highly evocative Arctic experience. Further from the sea, at the head of Liefdefjorden, is the huge Monacobreen (Monaco Glacier). If ice conditions permit, we will sail through the broken floes until we are quite close to the spectacular front of this immense glacier and its smaller but equally impressive neighbour the Idabreen. Wild, snow-covered peaks line the glaciers and the fjord sides, adding to the majesty of this extraordinary place.

Walruses generally feed in shallow water and we may encounter one or two hauled out on slabs of ice amongst the fjords of Spitsbergen, particularly if there is too much ice onshore for them to haul out easily on a beach. Often it is possible to take the ship close, or even get right up to one in the zodiacs. Seeing a large male Walrus at close range is truly impressive, especially when one can count every bristle on that amazing face! We may also see these bizarre creatures in the water, watching them roll around or rear their heads up to see what is happening, squinting along those huge tusks. If the ice on the beaches has melted we may be able to find a large gathering to visit, looking for all the world like a heap of gigantic brown slugs as they sleep away the ‘heat' of a summer's day while wallowing in decomposing kelp! If a new arrival turns up there may be a brief kafuffle as the newcomer shuffles its way into the midst of the heap, causing some rearing up and tusk stabbing, not to mention some outraged bellowing!

Exploring the sea ice is one of the joys of a polar voyage and so we will all be looking forward to the moment we find ourselves amongst the drift ice. As we approach the ice front it seems like a fortified white wall in our path, but as we get nearer we will see that this is just an illusion created by the low perspective – the floes lie jumbled at random across the surface of the sea, sometimes widely spaced, with just small pieces of ice in between, and sometimes crammed together. Our skilful Russian captain, an expert in polar navigation, will take our boat far into the ice, sometimes sailing down open leads, at others bumping and crushing the floes out of the way. We will soon be used to the grinding sound as another floe disappears below the bows, huge fragments breaking off and jostling each other in a swirl of water as we head ever onwards. Being amongst the ice is one of the very best times of any Spitsbergen journey, and as we gaze out across floes of every shape and size, ranging from brilliant white to an incredibly deep blue, we will be reminded that it is truly good to be alive when one can experience such extraordinary wonders! What is more, in order to experience ‘the ice' at its most intense, we may take to our zodiacs and zigzag amongst the floes to get right up close. And it is not just the ice which is fascinating, but the wildlife that survives and prospers here. Bearded Seals haul themselves up on the floes and can often be approached closely by the ship, If the ice is suitable we have a fair chance of coming across a Polar Bear trying its luck with Bearded Seals, and we should at least see footprints leading across the floes. Black-legged Kittiwakes dip down to feed on small Arctic Cod and shrimps as the ship disturbs the ice and Little Auks (or Dovekies), Brünnich's Guillemots (or Thick-billed Murres) and smart Black Guillemots fish in the leads or haul themselves up onto the ice floes. Non-breeding Pomarine Skuas (or Pomarine Jaegers) with spectacular ‘spoon-ended' tail projections sometimes gather here to harry the kittiwakes in the hope they will disgorge their last meal. Here, while amongst the drift ice, we have another chance to see the superb Ivory Gull and we can even entertain thoughts of another of those special birds of the Arctic, Ross's Gull, although, as this elegant little gull mainly frequents the icy waters far to the east of Spitsbergen (as a non-breeding visitor) and so is only seen on about one cruise in ten or less, you should not get your hopes up too much!

If we are lucky with the drift ice we will even penetrate as far as the Hinlopen Strait, which separates the main island of Spitsbergen (which is called Spitsbergen) from the largely ice-covered Nordaustlandet (or Northeast Land). Here we can visit the stark, sheer and dramatic cliffs at Alkefjellet (‘Auk Fell'). Even as we approach the cliffs, which are surrounded (indeed almost overwhelmed) by a huge icefield, the sheer numbers of auks (or alcids) will have become apparent and once we embark on a zodiac cruise the noise and characteristic smell of a vast seabird colony will soon surround us. Somewhere of the order of 30,000-50,000 pairs of Brünnich's Guillemots (or Thick-billed Murres) nest here, alongside much smaller numbers of Black-legged Kittiwakes. As we sail underneath the cliffs thousands and thousands of guillemots can be seen cramming every snow-free ledge, while thousands more wheel overhead or swim on the waters below the cliffs. Pieces of drift ice provide platforms for guillemots to haul themselves out on, where they look for all the world like penguins in the Antarctic!

Day 9   Today we will disembark and fly back from Longyearbyen to London via Oslo, arriving in the late morning or in the evening, depending on which flight out of Longyearbyen the cruise operators have selected.

Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotel at Oslo airport is of normal Birdquest standard. For details of the ship, see the introductory section. Not much road transport on this one! Transfers in Longyearbyen are by coach.

Walking etc: The walking is mostly easy (walks tend to be short distance), although there are uphill, boggy or stony areas at times. Some optional harder walks may be offered by the expedition leader, but these are for the wilderness experience rather than for seeing wildlife not available on the shorter walks. Zodiac embarkation and disembarkation are superbly handled by the crew and expedition staff, making shore excursions straightforward for even very elderly or unfit participants.

Climate: Surprisingly mild for so far north, due to the warming effects of the Gulf Stream. Temperatures average around 5-6°C at all times (there is no night of course), although it can feel much warmer on still, sunny days ashore and correspondingly colder on overcast, breezy days on the ship. There is usually little rainfall and sunny periods are interspersed with overcast weather. Some fog is likely.

Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are quite good overall.

Important: You need to bear in mind that circumstances may be encountered during the voyage which will make it necessary or desirable to deviate from the planned itinerary. These circumstances include poor weather conditions and unexpectedly heavy drift ice. The expedition leader will provide more information at the start of the voyage and keep you fully informed throughout. You should not be concerned that such changes will prevent you from experiencing Spitsbergen at its best: there are always alternative areas with excellent scenery and wildlife to visit if the ship is thwarted getting to a particular place.