| The
Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand & Australia
Friday 2 November
- Friday 23 November 2007 (22 Days)
Leaders: Derek Scott and the
Heritage Expeditions staff
Group Size Limit: 20
Ship: Professor Khromov (Spirit of
Enderby) (capacity: 48 passengers)
The
subantarctic islands of New Zealand and Australia are amongst the
most isolated and least known places in the world. There are seven
groups of islands in the region. The Chatham Islands, the Bounty
Islands, Antipodes Island, Campbell Island, the Auckland Islands
and Snares Island are sovereign territories of New Zealand, while
Macquarie Island is a territory of Australia. They all differ markedly
in size and form and have contrasting vegetation. They are important
refuges for a wide range of plants and animals, many of which are
found nowhere else in the world. They are also breeding grounds
for the countless seabirds and marine mammals that range over vast
areas of the Southern Ocean. All the islands have been designated
as nature reserves – the highest form of legal protection
that can be given to a natural area by the governments of New Zealand
and Australia. The integrity of these remote islands and their natural
values is maintained through strict controls on entry. Visitor numbers
are restricted and only 600 visitors a year are allowed to land
in the New Zealand subantarctic islands and only 500 at Macquarie
Island. There are further restrictions on the number allowed ashore
at any one time or on any one day. Our Subantarctic Islands expedition
includes landings on the Auckland Islands, Macquarie Island, Campbell
Island and the Chatham Islands, and plus zodiac cruises at Snares
Island, Antipodes Island and the Bounty Islands. With a maximum
of only 48 passengers plus staff on the expedition we are well within
the allowable daily limits and everyone can go ashore at one time.
The result is that you can spend entire days, not hours, ashore
on some of the most remarkable islands in the world. This specially
extended itinerary provides the most comprehensive cruise around
the subantarctic islands that is available and will allow participants
to experience for themselves the full range of the wonderful birdlife,
other aspects of natural history and scenery that these fascinating
islands have to offer.
The
birdlife of the subantarctic islands is dominated by their spectacular
seabirds. There are more seabirds nesting on Snares Island alone
than in the entire British Isles! Quite a number are endemic (at
least as breeding species) to the subantarctic and temperate regions
of Australasia, including Snares Island, Erect-crested, Royal, Yellow-eyed
and Little Penguins, Gibson's, Antipodean, Northern Royal, Southern
Royal, Buller's, Pacific, Salvin's, Chatham and Campbell Albatrosses,
Cook's, Mottled, Chatham Island and Westland Petrels, Buller's,
Hutton's and Fluttering Shearwaters, and Chatham Island, Campbell
Island, Auckland Island, Bounty Island, Pitt Island and Macquarie
Island Shags. Many other seabirds occur in the area, including King,
Gentoo and Rockhopper Penguins, Wandering, White-capped, Black-browed,
Grey-headed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, numerous petrels,
shearwaters, prions and storm-petrels, and Common Diving Petrel.
The subantarctic islands also have some interesting landbirds, some
of which are endemic, and in particular we shall be hoping to see
Chatham Island Oystercatcher, the strange Shore Plover, Auckland
Island Snipe, Chatham Islands Pigeon, Antipodes Island Parakeet
and Chatham Island Gerygone. Marine mammals are also a feature of
the area and we should see large numbers of New Zealand (or Hooker's)
Sealions and New Zealand Fur Seals, and with luck a few cetaceans.
We
shall be sailing on the Professor Khromov , a ship operated
by Heritage Expeditions ( who call her Spirit of Enderby)
and one well liked by those who sail in her due to her relatively
small size (she takes only 48 passengers), her ability to go almost
anywhere and her friendly, almost ‘family' atmosphere. A modern
Finnish-built vessel under Russian registry, the Professor Khromov
was built in the 1983 and commissioned by the Academy of Sciences
in Moscow. She was originally intended for oceanographic research,
but was subsequently adapted for expedition-style cruising following
the financial cutbacks that later affected all formerly Soviet research
programmes. She is, of course, not a ‘cruise ship' in the traditional
manner and will appeal most to those for whom exploring wild places
and enjoying wild nature, rather than enjoying luxurious surroundings
and ‘black-tie' dinners with the officers, is the prime attraction.
Cabins are furnished with two berths and have some storage space
and an outside view (many having en-suite bathroom facilities).
Public facilities include restaurant, lounge/bar, lecture facilities
and library. Food is plentiful, of good quality, waiter-served and
prepared by European, New Zealand or Australian chefs. The ship
carries a small complement of guest lecturers, including a naturalist,
who give informal talks on the environment, wildlife and history
of the subantarctic region and also guide shore excursions. As much
of the sailing as possible is done at night, thus maximizing opportunities
for going ashore and enjoying the beautiful subantarctic landscape
to the full. Landings are carried out by means of a fleet of zodiacs,
the rugged, fast-moving inflatables developed by Jacques Cousteau
for expedition work which allow safe landings on remote coastlines
in all types of conditions. The sheer speed and efficiency with
which the crew carry out these landings, coupled with the small
complement of passengers, allows everyone plenty of time ashore.
Birdquest first
visited the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand and Australia in 1998.
The great advantage of taking this particular cruise, if you are especially
interested in seeing the Subantarctic Islands' fantastic wildlife,
is that the itinerary and day to day schedule are strongly wildlife-orientated,
and the group will greatly benefit by having an experienced ornithologist
guide. The walking effort is mostly easy, but there are a few optional
harder walks.
| Itinerary |
| Day
1 Afternoon flight from London bound for Auckland.
Day
2 In flight (much of the day being ‘lost'
as we cross the International Dateline).
Day
3 Morning arrival at Auckland, from where
we take a connecting flight to Invercargill at the southern
tip of South Island. Upon arrival in Invercargill, we will
transfer to our hotel for an overnight stay and a chance to
meet up with the rest of the passengers taking the subantarctic
cruise.
Day
4 After breakfast we will transfer to our
ship which will be berthed at the nearby Port of Bluff. After
boarding we will make ready for departure, setting a course
for Snares Island to the south of New Zealand proper. This
first leg of our journey will provide our first opportunity
to see pelagic species. Watch out for Gibson's Albatross (split
from Wandering), Southern Royal Albatross, White-capped (or
Shy) Albatross, Salvin's Albatross (split from White-capped)
and Sooty Shearwater – there are an estimated 60 million
of the latter nesting on Snares Island! In addition, Mottled
Petrel, Broad-billed Prion and Common Diving Petrel should
all feature on the list today.
Day
5 Snares Island is the first of the subantarctic
islands that we will be visiting. It is an amazing place –
more seabirds nest on this small island than there are seabirds
around the entire British Isles! We will make landfall in
the early morning, marvelling at the incredible numbers of
Sooty Shearwaters and Common Diving Petrels sweeping past
as they head out to sea after leaving their nesting burrows
ashore. Landings are not permitted, so we will zodiac cruise
the sheltered eastern side. We should see all but one of the
birds that are found on the island. Snares Island (or Snares
Crested) Penguins are plentiful around the coast, as are Cape
Petrels. Buller's Albatross nest here late in the season and
may already be in the vicinity. Cruising in the sheltered
bays we will see the endemic races of the Tomtit and the Fernbird
(the former is an unusual, all-black form and may represent
a distinct species), while Red-billed Gulls, Antarctic Terns
and White-fronted Terns will be feeding around the coastline.
Later we will sail for the Auckland Islands.
Day
6 As dawn breaks we will be at Enderby Island
in the Aucklands group, a great island to bird. We will make
a landing at Sandy Bay, the main breeding ground for the New
Zealand (or Hooker's) Sealion. As well as an impressive number
of sealions we should also see Yellow-eyed Penguin, Southern
Royal Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Northern Giant
Petrel, the endemic Auckland Island Shag, the flightless Auckland
Island Teal (split from Brown Teal) and the Auckland Islands
races of Double-banded Dotterel and Tomtit. We will spend
some time searching for the delightful little Auckland Island
Snipe, another subantarctic islands endemic, which we should
find creeping through the rich herbage. Other, more widespread
birds include Subantarctic Skua, Red-billed Gull, Red-crowned
Parakeet, Bellbird and Australasian (or New Zealand) Pipit,
plus introduced Song Thrush, Common Blackbird, Common Starling,
Lesser Redpoll and European Goldfinch. Sometimes the dashing
New Zealand Falcon makes an appearance. On Derrycastle Reef
there is a good chance to see Bar-tailed Godwit, Ruddy Turnstone
and perhaps other migratory waders. Later we sail south towards
the main Auckland Islands group.
Day
7 After we arrive at Carnley Harbour, in the
south of the main Auckland Islands, there will be an opportunity
for the more energetic to climb up to the White-capped Albatross
colony at Southwest Cape. The scenery here is dramatic, with
the wave-lashed cliffs far below and wonderful views over
the southern Aucklands, while all around one large numbers
of White-capped Albatrosses sit on their nests, display to
their mates, preen each other or sail past on those long,
long wings. Gibson's Albatrosses nest amongst the grassy tussocks
on the high plateau above the White-capped Albatross colony.
We should get marvellous views of these huge birds as they
will be nesting at this time. We may also see one of the New
Zealand Falcons that frequent the vicinity. Those electing
to remain on board will visit one of a number of historic
sites in the area.
Day
8 As we continue towards Macquarie, surely
one of the most inaccessible birding Meccas in the world,
the excitement will be palpable. We will be at sea all day,
providing us with yet another wonderful opportunity to see
pelagics such as Gibson's Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross,
White-capped Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Grey-headed
Albatross, Campbell Albatross (split from Black-browed), Cape
Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White-headed
Petrel, Grey-backed Storm-petrel and Black-bellied Storm-petrel.
Day
9 We will arrive at far-flung Macquarie Island,
the most southerly of the subantarctic islands, in the early
afternoon. We shall hope to land at both the ANARE base and
at Sandy Bay. We will also zodiac cruise in Lusitania Bay.
It is, of course, the only place in the world where one can
observe the Royal Penguin and there is certainly no shortage
of these. We will visit a large breeding colony at Sandy Bay,
reachable by boardwalk, below which thousands of these cute
creatures loaf on a sandy beach. Some individuals are so inquisitive
that if you sit down they will wander over and tentatively
peck at your rubber boots! The handsome King Penguin is also
found in large numbers, while two other penguin species breed
on Macquarie Island, the Gentoo and the Rockhopper. In addition,
we will also see the endemic Macquarie Island Shag. Common
Starlings also eke out a meagre existence in this harsh place
at the veritable ends of the earth, while Lesser Redpolls
are of particular interesting to visiting Aussie birders,
this being their only Australian locale!
Day
10 We will continue our exploration of Macquarie
Island and then depart for Campbell Island.
Day
11 At sea today we will see a similar range
of seabird species to those we saw en route from the Auckland
Islands to Macquarie Island, perhaps with the addition of
Southern (or Antarctic) Fulmar, Blue Petrel and, with luck,
Grey Petrel.
Day
12 Campbell Island is a great spot. Sadly
rats got ashore shortly after the island was discovered and
they have wrecked havoc with many of the smaller nesting petrels
and prions. Nevertheless, there is still some great birding
and an opportunity to get some good photographs, especially
Southern Royal Albatross. We will be able to sit quite close
to these huge but gentle seabirds and we may well see their
elaborate bill-clattering courtship ritual. We will spend
a whole day ashore in order to see these and other breeding
species such as Rockhopper Penguin, the beautiful, gentle-looking
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Northern Giant Petrel, the
endemic Campbell Island Shag, Subantarctic Skua, Red-billed
Gull, Kelp Gull and Antarctic Tern. Resident passerines include
the inevitable introductions: Dunnock and Lesser Redpoll.
The island is famous for its ‘megaherbs', unique subantarctic
flowering plants that will just be coming into bloom at the
time of our visit. Campbell Island scenery is impressive with
great lowering headlands, mile after mile of sheer cliffs,
sweeping bays and pinnacle-shaped offshore stacks.
Day
13 At sea en route to Antipodes Island. This
is a day for pelagic species, with more southerly elements
continuing to predominate: Gibson's Albatross, Antipodean
Albatross (also split from Wandering), Southern Royal Albatross,
Campbell Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Salvin's
Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, Northern Giant Petrel, Southern
Giant Petrel, Sooty Shearwater and Little Shearwater should
all be encountered. We will endeavour to sort out Fairy Prion,
Fulmar Prion and Antarctic Prion, which are not always easy,
but we should get some great views while puzzling over these
tricky little ‘tubenoses'. Other species to be on the lookout
for include Soft-plumaged Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White-headed
Petrel, Grey-faced (or Great-winged) Petrel, White-chinned
Petrel, Grey-backed Storm-petrel, Wilson's Storm-petrel, Black-bellied
Storm-petrel and Common Diving Petrel. With luck we could
come across a rarity such as Kerguelen Petrel.
Day
14 It is an overnight trip to the Antipodes
Island, one of the most isolated of the subantarctic islands.
Weather permitting, we will zodiac cruise the coastline. We
will be keen to see the uncommon Antipodes Island Parakeet
and also the well-marked endemic race of the Red-crowned Parakeet.
We will also see the endemic Antipodes race of the Australasian
Pipit. Introduced Common Starlings and Lesser Redpolls are
also present. Both Rockhopper and Erect-crested Penguins frequent
the coastline and there are usually a good number of Antarctic
Terns and Kelp (or Southern Black-backed) Gulls present. As
we depart Antipodes Island this evening we will keep a watch
out for the Grey Petrel. Although it is a winter breeder there
may still be one or two birds present.
Day
15 En route to the Bounty Islands today we
should see Gibson's Albatross, Antipodean Albatross, Pacific
Albatross (split from Buller's), White-capped Albatross, Salvin's
Albatross, Northern Giant Petrel, Cape Petrel, Mottled Petrel,
Soft-plumaged Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Broad-billed Prion,
Fulmar Prion, Sooty Shearwater, Little Shearwater, Grey-backed
Storm-petrel, White-faced Storm-petrel, Wilson's Storm-petrel
and Common Diving Petrel. We will reach the Bounty Islands
in time for a late afternoon zodiac cruise. These inhospitable
granite rocks are lashed by the Southern Ocean and here we
will find both Erect-crested Penguin, a species restricted
to the Bounty Islands and Antipodes Island, and the endemic
Bounty Island Shag. In addition, Fulmar Prions nest on the
islands and, unusually for a prion, are active around the
cliffs in daylight.
Day
16 A day at sea with the chance to see more
of the species seen yesterday and to look out for new ones
such as Northern Royal Albatross and Chatham Albatross (split
from White-capped) as we near the Chatham Islands. As we head
northwards there is a small but real chance of encountering
Chatham Island Petrel, which breeds only in the Chathams,
and we will all secretly be hoping for the miraculous appearance
of a Magenta Petrel (or Taiko), a near-extinct species that
breeds in the Chathams and which has only been seen at sea
a few times in the modern era.
Day
17 Today we arrive at the Chatham Islands.
This remote archipelago has been isolated for thousands of
years and both the birds and plants show a high degree of
endemism. Sadly, many of the species have become extinct because
of extensive development and burning. As we approach the Chatham
Islands we will sail past Pyramid Rock, the breeding ground
of the Chatham Island Albatross. Later we will visit South
East Island. Landings are not permitted on this island, but
we will be able to have excellent close view of the endemic
Pitt Island Shag, Chatham Island Oystercatcher and the attractive
Shore Plover from the zodiacs. Only about 150 individuals
of the latter survive, so to see this remarkable shorebird
feeding on the wave-cut rock platforms will be one of the
highlights of our visit to the Chathams.
Day
18 During our birding excursion on Chatham
Island itself we should see the endemic Chatham Island Shag,
Pitt Island Shag, the rather portly Chatham Island Pigeon
(split from New Zealand Pigeon) and Chatham Island Gerygone
(or Chatham Island Warbler). We will also be looking out for
the endemic race of the Tomtit. Other species we should see
include Little Penguin, White-faced Heron, Black Swan, Pacific
Black (or Grey) Duck, Weka (a bold, chicken-sized rail), Masked
Lapwing (known locally as Spur-winged Plover), Double-banded
Dotterel, Red-billed Gull, White-fronted Tern, Australasian
(or New Zealand) Pipit, Welcome Swallow and Tui, and also
some introduced European species such as Dunnock, Common Starling,
House Sparrow, Common Chaffinch, Lesser Redpoll and Yellowhammer.
Days
19-20 As we travel towards the mainland we
will cross what is known as the Chatham Rise, a relatively
shallow area of water compared with the surrounding ocean.
This is also a great place for pelagic seabird watching with
an overlap of both northern (i.e. temperate zone) species
and those birds that favour southern latitudes. We can expect
to see Gibson's Albatross, Northern Royal Albatross, Campbell
Albatross, White-capped Albatross, Salvin's Albatross, Northern
Giant Petrel, Cape Petrel, Fairy Prion, Broad-billed Prion,
Cook's Petrel. Westland Petrel, Great-winged Petrel, White-chinned
Petrel, Flesh-footed Shearwater, Buller's Shearwater, Sooty
Shearwater, Hutton's Shearwater, Little Shearwater, Grey-backed
Storm-petrel, White-faced Storm-petrel, Common Diving Petrel
and Australasian Gannet.
Day
21 Our ship will arrive in the morning at
the port of Dunedin. Later we will transfer to Dunedin airport
for an afternoon flight to Auckland where we connect with
an evening flight bound for London.
Day
22 Midday arrival at London.
Accommodation:
The hotel in Invercargill is of a good standard.
For details of the ship, see the introductory section.
Climate:
Quite mild at this season. Temperatures range from
cool to warm in the north of the subantarctic islands region
and from cool to fairly cold in the south (although even in
the south it can feel relatively warm on a sunny day if there
is no wind). It feels decidedly cold on windy days at sea
in the far south, however! Sunny spells are interspersed with
(often longer) overcast periods and some rain is to be expected.
In mainland New Zealand the weather is generally similar in
character, but temperatures are typically quite warm at this
time of year.
Bird/Sea
Mammal Photography: Opportunities are excellent
for much of this tour.
Important:
Landings on some of the subantarctic islands are
by permit only as administered by the Governments of New Zealand
and Australia, and on rare occasions permits are refused.
It is also important to bear in mind that circumstances may
be encountered during the voyage which will make it necessary
or desirable to deviate from the planned itinerary. These
circumstances include poor weather conditions and unexpected
opportunities for making additional zodiac excursions. The
expedition leader will provide more information at the start
of the voyage and keep you fully informed throughout. While
as many landings as possible will be made, almost none of
these are crucial in terms of actually seeing the local birdlife,
which can almost invariably be seen from the ship or during
an inshore zodiac excursion. Sometimes the cruise departure/arrival
points in New Zealand may alter, but normally plenty of notice
is provided.
|

|
 |
| Photograph
by Pete Morris/Birdquest
The spectacular
Chatham Albatross, as its name suggests, is restricted
to the Chathams as a breeding species. |
|

Map
courtesy of Heritage Expeditions |
|
| TOUR
PRICES |
|
Tour
Price: £4677 London/London (or £3627 Invercargill/Dunedin)
in a Main Deck triple-berth cabin without private bathroom.
£5311
London/London (or £4261 Invercargill/Dunedin) in a Main Deck
twin-berth cabin without private bathroom.
£6073
London/London (or £5023, €7334, $9041 Invercargill/Dunedin)
in a Superior Cabin with private bathroom.
£6533
London/London (or £5483 Invercargill/Dunedin) in a Superior
Plus Cabin with private bathroom.
£6781
London/London (or £5731 Invercargill/Dunedin) in Mini Suite.
£7153
London/London (or £6103 Invercargill/Dunedin) in a Heritage
Suite.
In
addition there will be a charge to cover the landing fees
levied by the governments of New Zealand and Australia of
£172 per person.
These
prices are provisional as of the time of going to press and
will be confirmed by late autumn 2006.
Tour
Price Includes: Tourist class air travel by scheduled
services, surface transportation, accommodation, meals (breakfast,
lunch and dinner), shore excursions, zodiac cruises and sightseeing
during the cruise itself as described, service charges, entrance
fees, airport taxes, port dues and taxes. (Please note that
gratuities on board ship for the expedition staff and crew
are excluded: most passengers give between US$150-250 in total.)
Single
Cabin/Room Supplement: Single occupancy of Main
Deck cabins can be obtained in return for a 70% supplement
on top of the Invercargill/Dunedin price, while single occupancy
of Superior Cabins, Superior Plus Cabins and suites can be
obtained for an 80% supplement; this supplement also entitles
you to single room accommodation at the hotel in Invercargill.
Please note that if you are willing to share but no cabin-mate
is available you will not have to pay the
single occupancy supplement.
Deposit:
25% of the holiday price (rounded down to the nearest
£, € or $).
Final
Payment & Cancellation Charges: The balance
due for the holiday will be invoiced approximately five months
prior to departure, for payment within 21 days. For cancellations
made 121 days or more before departure a cancellation charge
of 10% of the holiday price will apply. For cancellations
made 1-120 days before departure, or on the day of departure
or later, the cancellation charge will be 100% of the holiday
price.
Alternative
Flight Arrangements: Our standard flight arrangements
ex-London are just one way of joining a tour. Our experienced
in-house flights department can arrange flights for you from
any airport in the world and with almost any airline. Using
a different airline, using a different routing, flying business
rather than economy class, travelling out before the tour
starts (for example, to get over the effects of jet-lag) or
returning late are all easy things for us to arrange. We can
also make your hotel bookings. Contact us for a quotation
and further information.
A
Heritage Expeditions colour brochure with further
information about the cruise, including ship layout and cabin
details, is available on request from our office.
|
|
|
 |
| Photograph
by Pete Morris/Birdquest
Yellow-eyed Penguin
is just one of the many exciting seabirds seen on this
fabulous cruise. |
|
|