| Day
1 Evening flight from London bound for Buenos
Aires.
Day
2 Morning arrival at Buenos Aires, the capital
of Argentina. Here we will change airports and then fly southwards
right down to the toe of South America to Ushuaia, at 55 degrees
south the southernmost town in the world, for a two nights
stay. If it is clear we will be able to see the vast, arid
landscapes of Patagonia far below and eventually the ice-clad
spires and vast snowfields of Tierra del Fuego. We shall arrive
in Ushuaia on the south coast of Tierra del Fuego in time
for some initial exploration.
Day
3 Tierra del Fuego, at the extreme southern
tip of the South American continent, is a land of windswept
moors, stunted Nothofagus beech forests, snow-capped
peaks and glaciers. Although the bird diversity at this latitude
is low, the quality is outstanding. We will spend much of
the day in Tierra del Fuego National Park, a spectacular region
of seacoasts, forests, lakes and mountains on the Chilean
border. Here we shall be hoping to find the mighty Andean
Condor and the impressive Magellanic Woodpecker, the largest
of the South American woodpeckers. Upland Geese are especially
numerous and there is a good chance of the beautiful Ashy-headed
Goose. Other species we should encounter amidst the wonderful
scenery of the park include Great Grebe, Flying and Fuegian
(or Flightless) Steamer-Ducks, Chiloé Wigeon, Speckled Teal,
Crested Duck, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Black-faced Ibis,
Turkey Vulture, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Southern Crested
and Chimango Caracaras, Magellanic and Blackish Oystercatchers,
Southern Lapwing, Austral Parakeet, Dark-bellied Cinclodes,
Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-throated Treerunner, White-crested
Elaenia, Fire-eyed Diucon, Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant, Austral
Negrito, Chilean Swallow, House Wren, Austral Thrush, Black-chinned
Siskin, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Patagonian Sierra-Finch and
Austral Blackbird. Back in Ushuaia, a walk around the harbour
should produce our first of many, many seabirds to come, including
Imperial and Rock Shags, Chilean Skua, Dolphin, Kelp and Brown-hooded
Gulls, and South American Tern. Along the shoreline we will
come across the striking Kelp Goose, which feeds almost exclusively
on the beds of giant kelp, and possibly also a few Rufous-chested
Dotterels amongst the migrant White-rumped Sandpipers.
Day
4 There will be time for more birding in the
Ushuaia area in the morning, and also opportunities for some
last-minute shopping. If the weather is fine, we might take
the ski lift up to the Martial Glacier and search for species
such as Bar-winged Cinclodes, Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant and
Yellow-bridled Finch, or we could pay a quick visit to the
municipal rubbish tip to look for White-throated Caracaras.
In the late afternoon, with increasing excitement, we will
board the ship that is to be our home for the next five weeks
and more. It should still be light as we set sail down the
Beagle Channel, named after the ship that brought Charles
Darwin to these parts in 1832. Here Magellanic Penguins, Black-browed
Albatrosses, Southern Giant-Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters and
Magellanic Diving-Petrels will bid us farewell, and give us
our first taste of the seabird glories that lie ahead.
Days
5-6 To the south of Tierra del Fuego lies
the thousand kilometres of the Drake Passage, separating the
curving tail end of South America from the Antarctic Peninsula.
Crossing this historic waterway, named after the great English
seafarer whose expedition almost came to grief in these wild
waters, is an exciting experience and gives us our first chance
to enjoy a host of albatrosses and petrels which will soon
become familiar companions to us during our voyage in the
great Southern Ocean. As we travel south, we shall pass from
the warmer Subantarctic waters that surround southern South
America to the cold waters of the Antarctic. The line of demarcation
between these two water masses is quite strongly pronounced
and is known as the Antarctic Convergence. Here the upwelling
currents create conditions ideal for plankton and the rich
feeding attracts numerous seabirds and often cetaceans. As
we watch from the decks we will see an endless succession
of seabirds following the ship, or sailing indifferently past,
including Black-browed and Grey-headed Albatrosses, the graceful
Light-mantled (Sooty) Albatross, Southern and Northern Giant-Petrels,
Southern Fulmar, Cape (or Pintado) Petrel, Blue Petrel, Slender-billed
and Antarctic Prions, Soft-plumaged and White-chinned Petrels,
and Wilson's and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels. The star of
this ever-changing spectacle will be the greatest seabird
of all, the Wandering Albatross, with its remarkable four
metre wingspan. As we watch these huge birds gliding low over
the sea between waves and then circling high into the air
without even the slightest movement of their wings we will
be witnessing one of nature's ultimate creations in action
– a bird which is in total harmony with its environment.
We will also come across the confusingly similar Southern
Royal Albatross amongst the Wanderings and be reminded just
how difficult it is to separate some seabirds! As we voyage
southwards we will have a chance to listen to some fascinating
lectures on the Antarctic environment and its wildlife or
visit the bridge to learn about the many complex navigation
instruments in use on our ship. By the evening of our second
full day at sea, we should have entered the Bransfield Strait
between the South Shetlands and the Antarctic Peninsula.
Day
7 As we slip southwards through the Bransfield
Strait, passing icebergs of immense size and awesome beauty,
some white, others tinged blue-green by algae, we shall be
keeping a lookout for the huge flukes of sounding Humpback
Whales, the high dorsal fins of Killer Whales slicing through
the water and the unobtrusive Antarctic Minke Whale. Chinstrap
Penguins porpoise through the waves or scamper from side to
side as we approach their ice-floes, and the first Antarctic
Petrels and Lesser Snow Petrels should appear amongst the
much more numerous Southern Fulmars and Cape Petrels. Here
the silence is profound as the sun glows on ice floes dotted
with Crabeater, Weddell and Leopard Seals, whilst beyond is
an endless vista of icebergs and the distant, snow-covered
mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula. Eventually we will make
a landing on the Antarctic continent itself, either at Hope
Bay or Brown Bluff at the extreme tip of the peninsula. Here,
near the Argentinean research station of Esperanza, we should
find little groups of moulting Gentoo Penguins and chicken-like
Pale-faced (or Snowy) Sheathbills, while Subantarctic (or
Brown) and South Polar Skuas patrol the shoreline in search
of an easy meal and graceful Antarctic Terns perch on blocks
of floating ice out in the bay.
Day
8 Today we will pick our way slowly between
the gigantic tabular icebergs in the evocatively named Erebus
and Terror Gulf at the northern end of the Weddell Sea. Some
of the icebergs, which have calved from the Larsen Ice Shelf
away to the south, are the most intense blue colour and have
been sculptured into fantastic shapes by the action of wind,
water and sun. The immaculate Lesser Snow Petrel regularly
adopts these bergs as a ‘home away from home' and we can expect
to see lots of these beautiful birds that surely epitomize
Antarctica, circling around their floating ‘islands'. There
is also a good chance of more Humpback and Antarctic Minke
Whales in this area. We hope to be able to make two landings
today, on Devil Island and Paulet Island, both of which support
large breeding colonies of endearing little Adelie Penguins.
Although most of the penguins will have left the colony by
now (we will have seen many on passing ice floes and icebergs),
we should find a few lingering adults still completing their
moult. Paulet also has a large colony of Antarctic Shags,
and nearby we can see the ruins of the Nordenskiöld Expedition
from the beginning of the 20th century.
Days
9-10 As we sail northeast through the sea
ice drifting out of the Weddell Sea, we will be keeping a
careful lookout on the ice floes for that greatest of all
avian prizes in Antarctica, the Emperor Penguin. We have a
reasonable chance of success, as small numbers of Emperors
from the breeding colonies in the Weddell Sea are regularly
encountered in these waters at this time of year. There may
also be large numbers of Antarctic Petrels in this area. If
weather and ice conditions permit, we will call in at the
remote South Orkney Islands for a landing either on Signy
Island, with its British Antarctic Survey Base, or on Laurie
Island, where the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition led
by Bruce and Robertson over-wintered in 1903 and established
a meteorological station that has been in operation ever since.
Day
11 For much of the day, our route across the
Scotia Sea towards South Georgia lies close to that taken
by Shackleton in 1916 when he and five companions went in
search of help for the crew of the Endurance stranded
on Elephant Island. Once again, the sea-watching will be excellent,
and as we near South Georgia, both the numbers and diversity
of species will increase markedly. We should now encounter
our first diminutive Common Diving-Petrels and Georgian Diving-Petrels,
and will need to be especially quick off the mark if we are
to separate these two very similar species as they get up
hurriedly from the water and sweep past our ship on rapidly
whirring wings. Antarctic Prions are particularly abundant
in these waters, and amongst them we may find a few Fairy
Prions.
Days
12-14 South Georgia lies at the northeastern
corner of the Scotia Ridge, a largely submarine formation
with only the summits poking above the sea as islands, that
links the Andes of South America with the mountains of Antarctica.
Profoundly remote, a mass of inaccessible ice-clad mountains
rising to 2934m, South Georgia is the most spectacular of
all the Subantarctic islands. Described by Robert Cushman
Murphy, that great pioneer of seabird research in the southern
oceans, as presenting ‘one of the world's most glorious spectacles
- like the Alps in mid-ocean', the coastline of South Georgia
endlessly surprises and delights as one striking vista of
deep fjords, jagged peaks and glacier-dominated valleys gives
way to another and yet another. During our three days in this
marvellous area we will hope to make several landings. For
over fifty years South Georgia was the hub of the South Atlantic
whaling industry, and we shall explore the eerie, silent ghost
settlement of Grytviken, the oldest whaling station on the
island. Here we will see the simple grave of Ernest Shackleton,
that hero of Antarctic exploration who died at Cumberland
Bay in 1922, and also visit the excellent whaling museum that
charts the history of the island. South Georgia is famous
for its vast nesting colonies of King Penguins, and we hope
to be able to go ashore at one of the largest of these, at
Salisbury Plain, where we will be enthralled by the incomparable
spectacle of tens of thousands of these colourful penguins
and their bright chocolate young against a dramatic backdrop
of snow-covered mountains and huge glaciers. Here and in several
other places we will find large groups of enormous Southern
Elephant Seals piled on the shoreline like heaps of giant
slugs, occasionally stirring from their slumbers to growl
a protest as a neighbour jostles them beyond the point of
acceptability. On one of the small islands in the Bay of Isles,
we may have to brave the smaller but much more aggressive
Antarctic Fur Seals, now more than recovered from the depredations
of nineteenth century sealers, in order to wander through
a colony of Wandering Albatrosses - so graceful in the air
yet so awkward on land – while not far away, Southern
Giant-Petrels squat Dodo-like on their untidy nests, hissing
at intruders. Light-mantled (Sooty) Albatrosses, the most
beautiful and most gentle of all the albatrosses, are widespread
as nesting birds and it is a thrilling sight to watch them
gliding to and fro along the cliffs or displaying to their
mates. During our stay in South Georgia we will certainly
want to track down the endemic South Georgia Pipit and also
the rather tame endemic race of the Yellow-billed Pintail,
now sometimes treated as a full species, the South Georgia
Pintail. Other species that we should find breeding in South
Georgia include bizarre-looking Macaroni Penguins, Grey-headed
Albatrosses and South Georgia Shags.
Day
15-19 The five-day journey from South Georgia
in the Southern Ocean to Gough Island in the South Atlantic
– a distance of over 2,500 km (1,350 nautical miles)
– will give us plenty of time to enjoy some of the very
best seabird watching in the world. Soon after leaving South
Georgia, we will cross the Antarctic Convergence and enter
the warmer Subantarctic waters. Many of our old companions
will still be with us, but we will now be on the lookout for
species that are typical of warmer waters such as Atlantic
Yellow-nosed and Sooty Albatrosses, Atlantic, Kerguelen, Grey
and Great-winged Petrels, Great Shearwater, and Grey-backed
and White-bellied Storm Petrels. We may also come across our
first Arctic (or Parasitic), Pomarine and Long-tailed Skuas
(or Jaegers) on their way north to breeding grounds in the
Northern Hemisphere. We have an excellent chance of seeing
whales and dolphins in this area, including Humpback, Fin
and Sei Whales, and Hourglass Dolphins, and if we are lucky,
we will chance upon one of the rarer species such as Gray's
Beaked Whale, Strap-toothed Whale or Southern Bottlenose Whale.
As we near Gough Island, we should see our first Tristan Albatrosses
(one of the ‘Wandering' group), along with handsome Spectacled
Petrels, Little Shearwaters of the distinctive subspecies
elegans , and White-faced Storm-Petrels.
Day
20 Part of the Dependency of Tristan da Cunha,
Gough Island lies some 410 km (220 nautical miles) southeast
of Tristan da Cunha, and is farther from the nearest populated
continental landmass than almost any other island in the world.
It is a volcanic island, 13 km across at its widest, and uninhabited
apart from a small meteorological station. Thanks to its isolation,
the island ecosystem has remained relatively unmodified, with
only one introduced mammal (the House Mouse), no introduced
birds and relatively few introduced plant species. The entire
island has been designated as a Nature Reserve and World Heritage
Site, and landings are forbidden in order to protect the delicate
ecosystem. Fortunately, however, all 20 species of seabirds
that come to the island to breed are easily seen in the surrounding
waters, while the two endemic landbirds can often be seen
along the shoreline. The total number of seabirds breeding
on Gough is unknown, but thought to be many millions. These
include almost half the world population of Northern Rockhopper
Penguin (144,000 pairs), almost the entire world population
of Tristan Albatross (1,500 pairs), 5,000 pairs of Atlantic
Yellow-nosed Albatross and 5,000 pairs of Sooty Albatross,
hundreds of thousands of pairs of Broad-billed Prions and
Great Shearwaters, tens of thousands of pairs of Kerguelen,
Great-winged, Atlantic, Soft-plumaged and Grey Petrels, Little
Shearwater and Grey-backed, White-faced and White-bellied
Storm-Petrels, and smaller numbers of Subantarctic Skuas (of
the subspecies hamiltoni , sometimes treated as a
separate species, the Tristan Skua), Antarctic Terns and Brown
Noddies (here at its southernmost breeding site in the Atlantic).
If the sea is not too rough, we should be able to circumnavigate
almost all of the island's 33 mile circumference to enjoy
the spectacular scenery and to marvel at the extraordinary
abundance of wildlife. On the sheltered eastern side of the
island we plan to take a zodiac cruise and hope to be able
to approach close enough to the shore to see the two endemic
landbirds, the Gough Moorhen and Gough Bunting, both of which
remain fairly common. Amongst the many thousands of Subantarctic
Fur Seals thronging the shoreline, we should find a few Southern
Elephant Seals, while Dusky Dolphins are common in the inshore
waters.
Days
21-23 The three main islands in the Tristan
group (Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible and Nightingale) lie
within 40 kms of each other, 2,782 km from Cape Town in South
Africa and 3,947 km from Mar del Plata in South America. Along
with Gough, these islands are a Dependency of St. Helena,
and are unquestionably the most remote inhabited islands in
the world. As we approach the main island of Tristan da Cunha,
the scene will be dominated by the impressive volcanic cone
of Tristan Peak which rises to over 2,060 metres above the
principal settlement at Edinburgh at the northwestern corner
of the island. First discovered in 1506 by the Portuguese
navigator Tristão da Cunha, this island, with a diameter of
only 12 km, has a thriving community of about 300 people with
a colourful series of ancestors that includes a number of
ship-wrecked sailors. The fiercely proud islanders were driven
from their homes by the volcanic eruption of 1961, but after
eighteen months of exile in Britain most chose to return to
Tristan to rebuild their lives. During our visit we shall
have a chance to meet the islanders and admire the older homes
in the settlement which are made from blocks of volcanic tufa
and thatched with flax. At the post office and store we can
buy the much sought-after postage stamps which help to provide
the island with some extra revenue, hand-knitted woollens
or replicas of the canvas-covered long-boats from which the
islanders used to catch rock lobsters before the arrival of
motorized vessels. Beyond the town are the potato patches
which were once a measure of a man's wealth. Tristan is the
main breeding site for the Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross,
with some 20,000-30,000 pairs, but otherwise there are rather
few birds on this island because of the abundance of introduced
rats and cats. However, we should see lots of Sooty Albatrosses
over the cliffs and a few Tristan Skuas and Antarctic Terns.
The endemic Tristan Moorhen, formerly considered conspecific
with the Gough Moorhen, became extinct in the late 19th century,
but there is a small population of Gough Moorhens that were
introduced on the island in the 1950s.
If
weather conditions permit, we hope to be able to visit the
other two main islands in the group, Nightingale and Inaccessible,
where there are immense breeding colonies of seabirds and
four endemic land-birds. Nightingale Island, some 38 km southwest
of Tristan, is only 2.5 km across and mostly covered in Spartina
tussock-grassland. This tiny island is home to a huge
breeding colony of Great Shearwaters, thought to number over
two million pairs, and countless other seabirds, including
125,000 pairs of Northern Rockhopper Penguins, 5,000 pairs
of Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatrosses and tens of thousands
of pairs of Broad-billed Prions, White-faced Storm-Petrels
and Common Diving-Petrels. If we are lucky enough to be able
to step ashore into this timeless, magical natural world,
we should have no difficulty in finding the endemic Tristan
Thrush and Tristan Bunting, but we will probably have to hike
up to the island's central plateau if we are to find the much
rarer Grosbeak Bunting which favours areas with scattered
trees. Here also we will come face to face with Atlantic Yellow-nosed
Albatrosses at their nests, and watch in fascination as Great
Shearwaters emerge from their burrows in the tussock grass
and launch themselves into the air from a convenient rock.
Inaccessible Island, 22 km northwest of Nightingale, is almost
surrounded by sheer cliffs that rise to 300m, but there are
two beaches where a landing is possible under relatively calm
conditions. This island, which was declared a Nature Reserve
in 1997, is home to the world's smallest flightless bird,
the incredible mouse-like Inaccessible Island Rail. Fortunately,
the rail is quite common, but we will still need some luck
if we are to see one scuttling about in the dense tussock
grass behind the beach. Inaccessible is also the only known
breeding site for the critically endangered Spectacled Petrel,
and supports a huge colony of Sooty Albatrosses. The weather
in the Tristan da Cunha group is dominated by severe cyclonic
storms and there is a high chance that strong winds and rough
seas will hamper our activities in this area. An extra day
has therefore been allocated for our stay in the Tristan group
to give us a day in reserve, in case of bad weather.
Days
24-27 The next leg of our journey takes us
for another 2,460 km (1,330 nautical miles) from the wild,
stormy seas of the South Atlantic to the calm waters and balmy
weather of the tropics. As we head north-northeast towards
the Tropic of Capricorn and Saint Helena, the pace becomes
a little more relaxed, with time to enjoy barbecues on deck
and maybe even catch up on some reading. The number and diversity
of seabirds diminish rapidly as we sail into warmer, subtropical
waters, and the appearance of large shoals of flying-fish
definitely adds a tropical flavour to our sea-watching. As
we bid farewell to our last albatrosses and Atlantic, Soft-plumaged
and Spectacled Petrels, we begin to encounter our first warm-water
species such as Bulwer's Petrel, Madeiran Storm-Petrel, Red-billed
Tropicbird and Masked Booby. We will also be on the lookout
for Sperm Whales as we pass through a rich feeding area for
this species.
Day
28-30 Saint Helena is an Overseas Territory
of the United kingdom, 1,913 km west of Angola and 3,284 km
east of southeastern Brazil. Like virtually all of the Atlantic's
isolated islands, St Helena's mountainous massif with its
jumble of steep V-shaped valleys and imposing sea cliffs is
of volcanic origin. Although the island lies well north of
the Tropic of Capricorn, the climate is subtropical with temperatures
influenced by the Southeast Trade Winds and ocean currents
from the Antarctic. The island was discovered by the Portuguese
in 1502, and it was here that Napoleon was exiled after his
defeat at Waterloo in 1816. During our stay, we will have
ample opportunity to enjoy the pleasant climate and see something
of the local culture, endemic flora and birdlife. We will
begin our exploration of the island at the main settlement
of Jamestown on the west coast, where Common White
(or Fairy) Terns hover overhead as we step ashore. We will
make the obligatory pilgrimage to the house at Longwood where
Napoleon lived, surrounded by flowers, until his death in
1821, and we may also have an opportunity to visit the Governor's
residence at Plantation House, with its ancient tortoises
on the lawn. We will definitely want to visit the golf course
and Deadwood Plain, two of the best sites for the Saint Helena
Plover or Wirebird, the island's only surviving endemic landbird.
This endangered species, the total population of which numbered
only some 435 individuals in 2001, has become a kind of local
mascot to the extraordinarily friendly islanders. The only
other native landbird is the Common Moorhen, which apparently
arrived under its own steam in relatively recent times. All
the other landbirds were introduced and include Common Pheasant,
Zebra Dove, Common Myna, Madagascar Fody, Java Sparrow, Common
Waxbill and Yellow Canary. The island is renown for its luxuriant
vegetation, but much of this consists of exotic plants such
as Hibiscus, Begonia and geraniums brought in by settlers,
and only small pockets of the endemic flora still survive
as, for example, at High Peak (at 798m, the highest point
on the island) where there is a small remnant of native thicket
with endemic ferns and cabbage trees. On one day we plan to
go out in one of the local boats along the sheltered west
coast of the island to look for Pantropical Spotted Dolphins
and to visit a group of small islets with breeding Madeiran
Storm-Petrels, Red-billed Tropicbirds, Masked and Brown Boobies,
White Terns, and Brown and Black Noddies. We may also find
Bottlenose Dolphins and Rough-toothed Dolphins in these waters,
as well as gigantic Whale Sharks.
Days
31-32 It is just under 1,300 km (700 nautical
miles) from St. Helena to our next destination, Ascension
Island. Now we will have plenty of time to relax on deck and
enjoy the balmy sea breezes as we pass through the doldrums.
Birds will be few and far between, but we should encounter
our first Cory's Shearwaters and Leach's Storm-Petrels along
with more Bulwer's Petrels and Madeiran Storm-Petrels and
perhaps a few Arctic and Long-tailed Skuas and Arctic Terns.
There is also a good possibility of Sperm Whale as we pass
near the Grattan Seamount.
Days
33-34 Ascension Island is a relatively young
volcanic island only eight degrees south of the Equator and
with a distinctly tropical climate. Discovered in 1501 by
the Portuguese navigator Juan da Nova Castella, the island
was not inhabited until 1815 when the British established
a naval garrison. Ascension played an important role in the
Falkland Islands conflict and continues to provide an important
link in the supply line to these islands. There are rather
few indigenous plant species, the luxuriant vegetation being
comprised almost entirely of introduced species such as Bougainvillea,
Casuarina and Hibiscus, and the only landbirds are five introduced
species, Red-necked Francolin, Common Myna, House Sparrow,
Common Waxbill and Yellow Canary. We will go ashore at the
main settlement at Georgetown and take a tour of the island,
visiting a huge breeding colony of Sooty Terns at Wideawake
Fairs and Green Mountain National Park, where those who wish
can climb to the summit of the island. Ascension's long sandy
beaches are a major breeding site for Atlantic Green Sea Turtles,
and as we shall be visiting the island during the egg-laying
season, we will visit a nesting beach in the late evening
and hope to witness female turtles coming ashore to lay their
eggs. However, the highlight of our stay on Ascension will
be a zodiac cruise around rat-free Boatswainbird Island, a
small Bird Sanctuary off the northeast coast of the main island.
This 104m high stack, only 3 ha in extent, is home to the
entire world population of Ascension Frigatebirds (10,000-12,000
individuals) as well about 1,500 pairs of Madeiran Storm-Petrels,
500 pairs of Red-billed Tropicbirds, 1,000 pairs of White-tailed
Tropicbird, 1,300 pairs of Masked Boobies, 5,000 pairs of
Black Noddies, and smaller numbers of Red-footed and Brown
Boobies, and Common White Terns.
Days
35-39 We continue our epic journey north towards
the Cape Verde Islands. During this portion of the voyage
we will cross the Equator and pay our respects to King Neptune
in the time-honoured manner. It will be very hot and humid,
and numbers of seabirds will be low, but we may well encounter
Cory's Shearwaters, Bulwer's Petrels, Madeiran Storm-Petrels
and Leach's Storm-Petrels, along with a few Long-tailed Skuas,
Sabine's Gulls and Arctic Terns on their northbound spring
migration, while cetaceans could include Short-finned Pilot
Whale.
Day
40 The Cape Verde archipelago consists of
some 10 islands of volcanic origin. They were settled by the
Portuguese in the 15th century and later the islands were
an important port of call for slave ships on their way to
America. The islands emanate an African flavour, reflected
in the people, local culture and colourful markets, yet links
with Portugal and even the United States are evident. At sea,
as we approach the southern group of islands, we should encounter
Cape Verde Shearwater (split from Cory's) and Boyd's Shearwater
(sometimes split from Little), as well as Fea's (or Cape Verde)
Petrels. We will make a landing on the impressive island of
Fogo, a huge extinct volcano that towers out of the Atlantic
and reaches a height of 2829m (9279ft). Here we should find
the endemic Iago Sparrow and Cape Verde Swift, and we also
have a chance for Alexander's Kestrel (split from Common).
Day
41 Today we will disembark at the small capital,
Praia, on the island of Santiago. If time permits, we will
make an excursion into the interior to search for the endemic
Cape Verde Buzzard, the endemic Cape Verde Warbler and the
colourful Grey-headed Kingfisher. In the evening we will fly
across to the international airport on the island of Sal to
await our flight to London, which departs shortly after midnight.
Day
42 Late morning arrival at London.
Accommodation
& Road Transport: The hotel in Ushuaia is of
a good standard. For details of the ship, see the introductory
section. The few road transfers and excursions will be by
small coach or minibus.
Walking:
The walking effort is mostly easy, but there are
a few optional harder walks.
Climate:
In southern Argentina conditions are typically cool,
with sunny periods and showers. Around the Antarctic Peninsula
the temperature is generally around freezing point (around
4-5°C, or 39-41°F at South Georgia) and on sunny days it can
feel relatively warm if there is no wind (but it feels decidedly
cold on windy days at sea). Sunny spells are interspersed
with (often longer) overcast periods and some rain or snow
are to be expected. At Gough and Tristan da Cunha, the climate
is cool with maximum temperatures around 11-15°C (52-59°F)
and a high probability of low cloud and rain. On St. Helena,
Ascension and the Cape Verde Islands, the weather is usually
warm or hot and humid, with maximum temperatures around 27-31°C
(81-88°F). There is a possibility of some rain in this mid-Atlantic
section.
Bird/Sea
Mammal Photography: Opportunities are excellent
for much of this tour.
Important
Note: This unique trip is very much at the mercy of
the weather and sea conditions, especially in the South Atlantic
where frequent periods of high winds and rough seas can make
landing on islands in the Tristan da Cunha group very difficult.
In Antarctica, the precise itinerary may vary from year to year
according to local ice conditions. Adverse weather conditions
may prevent landings on exposed coasts and on some islands,
but it is unusual for more than two or three landings to have
to be called off during a cruise.
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